Selecting the correct 1 10 rc truck shocks can literally change how your own vehicle feels the particular second you pull the trigger. If you've ever observed a truck jumping down the street like a pogo stick, you know precisely what happens whenever the suspension isn't sorted out. It's frustrating, it looks goofy, plus it makes the truck almost impossible to control in high speeds.
I've invested way too many hours sitting in a workbench covered in silicone essential oil that shocks are usually probably probably the most confusing part of any kind of 1/10 scale rig. Whether you're managing a short course truck, a monster truck, or a rock crawler, those four little tubes perform all of the heavy raising. They aren't simply there to appear cool with shiny colors; they're the difference between landing a jump effortlessly and snapping an arm because the particular chassis slapped the pavement too very difficult.
Why stock shocks usually aren't enough
Most ready-to-run (RTR) vehicles come with decent enough shocks to get started on, but manufacturers frequently cut corners here. You might discover plastic bodies that flex pressurized or even seals that begin leaking after just a couple of batteries. Plastic shocks aren't inherently "bad, " but they have a tendency to get "stuck" or even have more rubbing than high-end threaded aluminum versions.
When you update your 1 10 rc truck shocks , you're usually looking for consistency. You want the left front to act exactly like the right front. Metal shock bodies remain true to their particular shape, and they dissipate heat much better. If you're race or doing lengthy bash sessions, the particular oil inside the shock actually gets warm. As it warms up, it will get thinner. Aluminum systems help keep that temperature under control so that your handling doesn't venture out the home window fifteen minutes into a run.
Understanding shock oil and weight
The oil inside your shocks is what provides the "damping. " Without it, you just have the spring, plus a spring alone will just bounce until it runs out of power. The thickness, or even weight, of the oil determines how fast the shock can compress and rebound.
Generally, heavier oil (like 45wt or 50wt) is great for big jumps because it decelerates the compression, preventing the particular truck from bottoming out out. However, if you go too weighty, the suspension becomes "lazy. " This won't react fast enough to little bumps, and the truck will feel rigid and jittery.
On the other hand, lighter in weight oil (around 25wt or 30wt) permits the suspension move freely. This really is amazing for crawlers or even for driving on really rough, choppy dirt to need the tires in order to follow the shape of the surface. It's all the balancing act. Most people find a "sweet spot" around 35wt for general bashing, but it really depends on the weight associated with your specific truck and the holes in the surprise pistons.
The particular role of the particular pistons
Inside the shock entire body, there's a small plastic disc known as a piston connected to the base. This disc offers holes in it. Since the shock movements, the oil is forced through those holes. This will be where the magic occurs.
When you have the piston with 2 holes, the oil moves through slowly—lots of damping. If you swap to a four-hole piston, the oil movements through much faster. Some guys like to get really technical and drill down their own holes, but for most of us, the pistons that come inside a standard set of 1 10 rc truck shocks are a lot adjustable.
One thing to watch out for is "pack. " Group is that feeling when a shock moves easily more than small bumps yet suddenly gets extremely stiff when you hit something very hard. It's brought on by the oil being unable in order to flow through the piston holes fast enough during a high-speed impact. It's actually a good factor for big air landings since it will save your chassis through hitting the floor.
Spring rates and preload
Springs carry the particular weight of the particular truck; the shocks damp the motion. It's simple to obtain those two things confused. If your truck is sagging as well low, you may think you need wider oil, but you actually need stiffer suspension systems or more pre-load.
Preload is definitely usually adjusted simply by turning a threaded collar for the shock body or including plastic spacers. This particular compresses the springtime and raises the particular ride height. A good rule of thumb for a 1/10 scale truck will be to have the drive bones (the axles) sitting roughly level when the particular truck are at relaxation on a flat work surface.
If you find yourself turning the preload collars all the method to the bottom simply to get the truck to stand, your springs are too soft. It's time for you to buy a stiffer set. Most aftermarket replacement 1 10 rc truck shocks have color-coded suspension springs so you can keep monitor of which is usually which. Red is definitely often "firm, " and blue is often "soft, " but that varies wildly by brand, so always check the package.
Maintenance and the dreaded leak
Let's be true: shock maintenance is definitely messy. You're going to get essential oil on your fingertips, your table, and probably your tee shirt. But it has to be done. With time, dirt works the way past the O-rings and becomes the oil in to a nasty gray sludge. This sludge acts like sandpaper, wearing throughout the shock shafts as well as the internals.
If you see the "wet" shop around the bottom of your own shock, the seals are toast. Replacing O-rings is the cheap fix, but it takes tolerance. A little trick I've learned is usually to use a bit of "Green Slime" (a specific type of heavy grease) on the O-rings whenever you install them. It helps make a better seal off and keeps the rubber from drying out out.
Also, when you're filling your shocks, spend some time getting the air bubbles out. In case there's air stuck in the oil, the shock will experience "notchy" and inconsistent. Fill them upward, move the base up and down slowly, and allow them sit for ten minutes. You'll see the small bubbles rise in order to the top. As soon as they're gone, cap them off.
Are expensive shocks worthwhile?
A person can find a set of four 1 10 rc truck shocks online intended for twenty bucks, or you can spend over the hundred on a high-end racing place. Is there a positive change? Absolutely.
The cheap models often use low-quality metal and thinner coatings on the shafts. They may feel okay with first, but they tend to leak quicker and the shafts may bend more effortlessly. High-end shocks generally feature "TiN" (Titanium Nitride) coated shafts—those are the gold-colored ones. They are incredibly smooth and resist scratching.
However, if you're just driving close to the backyard or the local park, you don't need a pro-level racing set up. A solid mid-range group of aluminum-body shocks would have been a massive upgrade over stock plastic material ones without busting the bank.
Final thoughts on setup
Don't hesitate to experiment. The beauty of 1/10 range trucks is exactly how tunable they are. Try running slightly heavier oil within the front than in the rear. Occasionally that helps the truck stay more steady during acceleration. Or try different increasing holes on the particular shock towers. Shifting the top of the shock inward generally makes the truck feel more "side-bitey" and responsive, whilst moving it out makes it more steady and easier to drive.
The best thing a person can do is usually change one point at the same time. If a person change the essential oil, the springs, and the mounting position all at one time, you won't know which change in fact helped (or hurt). It takes a bit of trial and error, but once you get your 1 10 rc truck shocks dialed within, the truck will certainly feel like it's glued towards the floor. And honestly, that's when the pastime gets really enjoyable.